Weingut Bernhard Huber
name Malterdinger vintage 2011
variety Pinot Noir price AUD$54
Baden, Germany. In this region Pinot has been grown for more than 800 years. The Malterdinger is the estate’s village wine, a step up from the regional blend simply called Baden Pinot noir. Vineyards are well established, with vines of 25 years of age, roots are deeply exploring the soil profile. The so-called ‘Mussel Chalk’ of renown in Burgundy’s Chambolle Musigny & Gevrey-Chambertin, is also found in the soils of this region.
Very Serious. Germans are all about quality up front, so the bottle has all the quality parameters used in German labelling all over it. This includes: VDP (Verband Deutscher Pradikats), Trocken status (Dry wine) & the Heraldic Eagle.
This is a unique example. Light, bright and violet in appearance, It’s fragrant, with hints of wild cherries and very little influence of oak. When it sits for a while in the glass, it opens up and releases spice and ash notes. On the palate it’s tense, lively, savoury and vibrant in flavour. At 13.5% it feels fresh, persistent and layered. The best part it’s how it finishes, It has a slippery drive that goes forever.
suggested food matching
Because of the high acidity this Pinot Noir can handle rich meaty meals with plenty of sauces and jus, such as Goat, Duck, Pork and Lamb. I found it hard to drink by itself but that’s just my personal taste, because I enjoy more softer and plusher examples.
the final word
This Pinot Noir has a particular character, if you like Central Otago Pinots probably won't be of your taste, because it’s more acidic. It also has less alcohol and fruit is not as generous, plus the textural finish is gained with less oak in comparison. This example is for sophisticated drinkers who enjoy wines with age. For my taste, this Pinot was spot on, showed what they call ‘site expression’ as it’s grown in Baden, Germany’s warmest area. Huber‘s ‘Burgundian knowledge’ gave to the wines a unique personality, they are polished, savoury and tense with vibrant flavours.