Weingut Bernhard Huber
name Malterdinger Bienenberg, 1er Spatburgunder ‘GG’ >>R<< vintage 2011
variety Pinot Noir price AUD$127
Bienenberg ‘GG’ (GROSSES GEWÄCHS), Marterdinger, Germany. Huber’s holdings in the Bienenberg vineyard were planted in the 50s and 60s with primarily German clones. They are the oldest on the estate. Of the approximately 130-hectare Bienenberg Vineyard, Huber owns 15 hectares. Of this, about 10.45 ha is classified ‘Grosses Gewachs‘, the equivalent of the French term ‘Grand Cru’. As most great sites in the world wine, the soil contains limestone and vineyards are situated in a slope, resulting in a small crop with very intensely flavoured grapes. The average vine age is between 2 and 53 years and yields are around 30 hl/ha.
Premium looking bottle - the golden words on the label, typography and shield are quite distinctive. Quality control is something that Germans are quite proud of, so the symbol that certifies that they are part of the association VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter) is prominent on their bottles. Since 1926, the ‘VDP Eagle’ is used to trademark wines and to guarantee wine’s natural purity and function as an internationally recognised logo for high-quality German viticulture.
The Bienenberg 1er GG (GROSSES GEWÄCHS) is at the same level of the best burgundy’s 1er Crus and even Grand Cru status. It opended rather oaky, but once it sat in the glass for a while it displayed an array of aromas with a vibrancy that extends on the palate. It’s perfumed, has red cherries, marzipan and stalky elements. It has firm acidity at 13% which can be hard for some wine drinkers, but for fans of cool climate reds this is a jewel of unique personality. It’s soft, structured and it has quite a back palate. All characteristics found in great wines.
suggested food matching
Lamb, duck and goat - savoury and earthy dishes will suit. Nothing overpowering, as this wine has delicacy of flavour, it's better to look for the interaction with the juices and sauces, as the vibrancy and freshness of this pinot noir creates a sensorial experience of great complexity.
the final word
I was blown away by this wine. I am a big Pinot Noir fan and I always find exciting when I get to taste a wine that leaves me thinking afterwards. Huber’s take on the variety is unique and it really shows a sense of place.