* The content is a combination of the Negociants Australia website information and my essay.

An additional component of the Working with Wine Fellowship Education Program is dedicated to writing about wine. A written assignment, which is a compulsory element of the program, will be issued to all participants after Seminar One, to be completed in their own time. The participant with the most successful submission, as determined by Nick Ryan, will have their article published in the Gourmet Traveller WINE magazine and receive a one-on-one mentoring session with Nick.

The essay below is what I submitted this year and the subject was:

‘‘You have carte blanche and a blank cheque to put together the wine list for a new fine dining restaurant. Take us through your vision. ‘‘ (1000 words)

A sommeliers' expertise is necessary for the success of a fine-dining restaurant, because they elevate the gastronomic experiences for customers, through wine. For me, the curation of a wine list is based on the restaurant’s theme and the clientele. Guest satisfaction is key to the success of a wine program. Sommeliers are hands-on communicators in the dining room, adding to the culinary experience through wine service and guest interaction. Therefore, in my vision, a wine list in a fine-dining venue should combine; showcasing an array of styles with gastronomic choices by the glass; present accessible and limited selections with a combination of classic and upcoming producers; and the use of Coravin preservation system to facilitate guest exploration.

A fine-dining restaurant typically aims to encapsulate the world of wine & beverages within their wine list. Three-glass rated selections can range from venues like Melbourne’s Ishizuka with 39 wine listings, right up to the extravagant 3,720 listings at Rockpool Bar & Grill Sydney. The rating is not about the quantity of products; it is about how well the overall selection suits the dining room and the narrative of the restaurant. Sommeliers are acutely aware that the purpose of a wine list is to enhance the gastronomic experience. Patrons come to eat first. Food is inevitably the priority, surpassing wine. Beverages are designed to complement the dining — elevating the senses — inviting contemplation and conviviality.

Bathia Dheeraj - Head Sommelier, Merivale

Curated by a professional, the selection on a wine list must be relevant to the clientele. The curation must appeal to the demographic that the venue is targeting. Sommelier James Alcock from Brisbane’s Local Larder says: ‘’Our wine list has been built specifically for our demographic composed of mostly high earning families with children in private schools.’’ The by-the-glass range is priced from $9 up to $50 and is designed to suit their patrons who prefer quality over quantity. Building relationships with customers and their preferences inevitably strengthen the business. Listings become more cost-effective when you understand your client and can deliver exactly what they like. Once a rapport has been developed, hand-selling unique products — that would be otherwise hard-sales — becomes viable.

A key differential offered by most fine-dining venues that set them apart from casual dining eateries is the tasting menu. In my vision, the by-the-glass selection must be curated for the gastronomic potential, and therefore, for food matching. Champagne and Australian Prosecco are my go-to preferences for arrival. Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling with richer intensity can handle raw and creamy dishes. A dry rose is great with spicy and salty food, visually enticing too. From personal experience, I have identified that it's critical to offer diversity in the reds. The younger generations tend to select lighter-bodied reds and older generations tend to favour heavy-bodied.

A discerning diner loves to be surprised. As Solotel Group Sommelier, Matt Dunne says 'The fun & playful offerings, like the alternate varietals section of a wine list, are designed to grab interest and take guests on a new journey every time." This is the reason why his strategy includes continually rotating and evolving the list. A balanced by the glass offering — even though the wines might be alternative and unknown at times — ensures that the aromas, flavours and textures are in synergy with the food.

Wines of limited availability in allocation or sourced directly from the winery are the icing on top of the list. There is an expectation that a fine-dining environment will offer rare bottles. I've always made it a priority to list wines that will inevitably feature on awarded wine lists and have a track record of great cellaring, such as Rockford Basket Press, Henschke Mt. Edelstone or Wendouree Pressings. Australia’s Best Sommelier of the year for Gourmet Traveller Wine Magazine, Bathia Dheeraj, comments that at Est. "Classics are number one, but Australia remains a special point of interest." Merivale has allocations for lots of limited availability. At present, Bathia is happy to be pouring 2011 Bannockburn S.R.H Chardonnay by the glass and the 2009 Shaw + Smith Pinot Noir, which is "at optimum drinking now," he assures.

Over the years I have always made a point of showcasing some great producers of the world. To feature historical growers with global relevance as well as contemporary local growers shows balance and a holistic view. I enjoy adding multiple producer features — profiling their story, alongside a few of their wines — the rarer the better. With great success, I featured world-renowned brands, Bouchard Pere & Fils and Louis Roederer for their historical relevance, as well as star local producers Leeuwin Estate and Golden Grove Estate.

Marcell Kustos, Head Sommelier at Penfolds Magill Estate, offers a micro wine list, a summary of their full 500 wines. “A thick and lengthy wine list can be time-consuming and intimidating for the customer. Hence, I designed a one-page selection of wines that cover a broad array of styles, varieties, regions, vintages and price points. An abbreviated list is a way of being hospitable. It’s friendlier and makes customer decision-making much faster and easier.’’

Alternative ways of serving wine represent a revolution in restaurants. For me has proven to be an excellent option to have piccolo size champagne and sparkling for singles or couples, as well as magnums at more accessible pricing for large groups. Coravin’s wine preservation system has unlocked a new way of pouring wines. Currently, you can enjoy the option of tasting a large range of premium wines in one sitting. You can choose between a small taste, a half or a full glass. I found that if you offer a full Coravin page, patrons tend to trade-up. The feeling of consuming something unique while dining is hard to resist.

Storytelling, personal experiences, gastronomy, innovation, demographic awareness, rare bottles and contemporary serving methods — these are my essential ingredients when writing a wine list. The budget is the challenge for curation. Being sensible financially while covering all the bases is the biggest challenge, particularly when there are so many great wines to choose from!

Written Assignment - Working with Wine Fellowship